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CHANEL F/W 2012 RTW  

2012-05-24 04:17:08|  分类: Runway-Looks |  标签: |举报 |字号 订阅

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Fall/Winter 2012 Ready-to-Wear Paris

Chanel

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Designer : Karl Lagerfeld

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Line-up
(O=opened, C=closed)
 
Andie Arthur
Andreea Diaconu
Anja Rubik
Antonia Wesseloh
Arizona Muse
Ava Smith
Aymeline Valade
Bette Franke
Bianca Balti
Caitlin Lomax
Cara Delevingne
Carolina Thaler
Caroline Brach Nielsen
Daria Strokous
Dorothea Barth Jorgensen (C)
Edie Campbell
Elena Bartels
Erjona Ala
Georgia Hilmer
Hedvig Palm
Heidi Mount
Hudson Kroenig
Iris Egbers
Isabella Melo
Jacquelyn Jablonski
Joan Smalls
Joanna Koltuniak 
Josefien Rodermans
Julia Nobis
Karmen Pedaru
Kasia Struss
Kati Nescher (O)
Kel Markey
Kendra Spears
Kinga Rajzak
Lida Fox
Lily Donaldson
Lindsey Wixson
Liu Wen
Mackenzie Drazan
Magda Laguinge
Magdalena Frackowiak
Margaret Qualley
Maria Bradley
Marte Mei Van Haaster
Maud Welzen
Meghan Collison
Melissa Stasiuk
Melissa Tammerijn
Miranda Kerr
Mirte Maas
Monika Sawicka
Montana Cox
Morgane Warnier
Nadja Bender
Patrycja Gardygajlo
Rosemary Smith
Sara Blomqvist
Saskia de Brauw
Shu Pei
Sigrid Agren
Sojouner Morrell
Sui He
Stella Tennant
Tao Okamoto
Xiao Wen Ju
Zenia Sevastyanova
Zuzanna Bijoch


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THE amethyst and crystal stalagmites comprising this morning's Chanel show didn't create quite the headline atmosphere of Karl Lagerfeld's aquatic set of last season, but the traffic chaos outside and dramatic, huge setting within the Grand Palais certainly maintained his position at front of centre stage in the international fashion hierarchy today.

And today's show was as fiercely original and elaborately played out as ever. "It was one of my favourite Chanel shows for years," said Vogue's fashion director Lucinda Chambers. "It was so focused and precise in that he stuck to those great shapes and the layering that we saw in New York and is really coming through this week in Paris, with the trousers, under a skirt, under a blouse and big jacket and the oversized coats - but what sets it apart from Celine, say, is that the coats are so worked upon with wonderful embellishment and feathers and appliqué. Even a luxe tweed parka with a sequinned hood in Karl’s hands becomes really beautiful but still has that street edge.”
 
A roomy silhouette allowed for a side-stepping of the size prejudices that Lagerfeld has been accused of recently, while a three-year-old little boy taking to the catwalk, carrying his own miniature Chanel bag, walked neatly into the controversy about under age models that continues to rage within and without the industry. Very sweet but hard to justify in terms of essential – but then, what about Chanel is essential?
 
As ever with Lagerfeld’s work, not a single detail had been missed, from the Maison Lesage embellished, glittering eyebrows to the Lurex-shot tweeds in petrol green, indigo and purple, incredible emerald, amethyst and sapphire embellishments and petrol green feather-smothered jackets and miniature tweed rucksacks.
 
Wide-shouldered trench coats were belted and collared in jewels or worn with baggy, glittering mohair snoods; dramatic cutaway ankle boots had Perspex heels to cater to that particular trend – these ones with stiff, faceted clutches to match - while crushed velvet jeans lined in more glitter brought fashion’s new penchant for investment trousers to the forefront.
 
Loose knitwear featured irregular patterns in green, purple, pink and mustard, while heavy grey wool coats were scattered with bright yellow, pink and green jewels and long silk muslin dresses in the same stained glass prints gave a nod to the modern hippy we’ve seen creeping in elsewhere. 
 
Despite the hardy mood, the Chanel delicacy was very much in evidence too, with pearl-embellished chain belts wound around dresses of frothy lace, silk chiffon pleat-fronted pussy bow blouses and disco chic skirts of pink and green ribboned lamé. Some futuristic, panelled wool coats revealed chiffon ruffles of sleeves from stiff shoulder panels.
 
It was a feast of colour and texture with a feel of sorcery - Karl’s signature rebellion giving the dark arts a moment within his couture repertoire.

Show Report / DOLLY JONES vogue.uk 06/03/2012


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