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Dior F/W 2012 RTW  

2012-04-17 04:06:48|  分类: Runway-Looks |  标签: |举报 |字号 订阅

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Christian Dior
Fall/Winter 2012 Ready-to-Wear Paris

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Designer : Bill Gaytten

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Line-up
(O=opened, C=closed)
 
Ajak Deng
Alana Zimmer
Alina Baikova
Alla Kostromichova
Anais Pouliot
Andie Arthur
Andreea Diaconu
Anna Selezneva
Aymeline Valade (O)
Carolina Thaler
Caroline Brasch Nielsen
Constance Jablonski
Daga Ziober
Daria Strokous
Erjona Ala
Frida Gustavsson
Heidi Mount
Hye Jung Lee
Joanna Koltuniak
Joan Smalls
Josefien Rodermans
Josephine Skriver
Jourdan Dunn
Juju Ivanyuk
Karlie Kloss (C)
Karmen Pedaru
Kasia Struss
Kate King
Kati Nescher
Lily Donaldson
Lindsey Wixson
Liu Wen
Mackenzie Drazan
Magdalena Frackowiak
Maria Kashleva
Marte Mei Van Haaster
Maud Welzen
Melissa Tammerijn
Michaela Kocianova
Monika Jac Jagaciak
Montana Cox
Nadja Bender
Nimue Smit
Olga Sherer
Ruby Aldridge
Shu Pei Qin
Sigrid Agren
Siri Tollerod
Sui He
Suvi Koponen
Toni Garrn
Vanessa Axente
Vlada Roslyakova
Yulia Kharlapanova
Zuzanna Bijoch


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THERE couldn't really have been more drama, red herrings and further plot thickening if there tried in the week running up to the Dior show today, a year on since Galliano's scandal and the second ready-to-wear show with Bill Gaytten, Galliano's right-hand man and work colleague for 17 years, at the helm.

Yesterday there were rumours that flowers had been sent to Dior HQ for one Haider Ackermann - at one point a contender for the job - and last week the news came that Stefano Pilati had left Yves Saint Laurent and Raf Simons had showed his last Jil Sander collection. Both designers have had their names linked to the infamous Dior job over the last year.

But today there was no sign or signal that Gaytten was going anywhere, merely refining and defining his take on the legendary brand.

"He's doing a really good job. I thought it was ravishing, such lovely colours - the Dior customer would be very happy," said Vogue's Lucinda Chambers, noting it to be very pared down but very feminine. "It was really polished, but gentle," she said.

Gaytten had taken inspiration from Dior's masculine tailoring and combined it with a ballet femininity which took shape through cinched waists to reveal splaying, thickly-pleated skirts beneath in shades from mauve through to red wine and powder pink.

Houndstooth opened the show reworked as embroidery on a burgundy coat to give a nod to this masculinity, while the balletic influences were signalled by the long thick ponytails that ran the length of backs, the little knitted caps and the shoes that cleverly combined the block of a point shoe into a thick sole and heel of a platform, complete with thick ribbon ties and the traditional little bow at the toe.

Draped leather, meanwhile, inserted itself into the backs of belted jackets - here was a tougher edge to the Dior woman's wardrobe. Throughout, Gaytten juxtaposed this hard and soft - with lots of little jackets that took on a new curved silhouette or "rounded femininity" as the show notes said. This term, however, could perhaps also be applied to the new Dior direction - it's more pared down under Gaytten's guidance and is very wearable, it is now a more rounded offering.

Wraparound knits looked poised for warm-ups before dance class, as did simple black long-sleeved tops worn with jewels sparkling from around their necks and a new midi length of tutu skirt, which worked its way into almost every look.

For eveningwear Gaytten's gal looked to old school Dior, back in the days when the man himself was head, and took to the catwalk in reworked structured gowns with sheer skirts that wafted and floated, again maintaining that signature waisted Dior silhouette - one in teal, another in pink and another on the gorgeous Karlie Kloss who closed the show in burgundy.

The rumour mill still rumbles on, but in the meantime Gaytten is going down well.  / vogue.co.uk Show Report / JESSICA BUMPUS


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