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McQ F/W 2012 RTW  

2012-04-01 02:37:23|  分类: Runway-Looks |  标签: |举报 |字号 订阅

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McQ

Fall/Winter 2012 Ready-to-Wear London


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摁 ! 蘑菇 ~~

Designer : Sarah Burton

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Line-up
(O=opened, C=closed)
 
Alla Kostromicheva
Ava Smith
Emilia Nawarecka
Franziska Müller
Kati Nescher
Kristen McMenamy (C)
Lara Mullen
Lieve Dannau
Mackenzie Drazan
Marte Mei van Haaster
Nadja Bender
Nimue Smit
Patricia van der Vliet
Patrycja Gardygajlo
Sui He
Ymre Stiekema
Zuzanna Bijoch (O)
 
 
MENS
Alex Bennett 
Bastian Thierry
David Hlinka
Ibra @ TIAD
Lowell Tautchin
Reece Sanders
Yuri Pleskun
 

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A sensational McQ show tonight - the first collection of it ever to make  it onto the catwalk – created a true fashion high. If London’s on a wave of success, the feeling that the Alexander McQueen brand – even in its second line, McQ, form – is back on our catwalk felt like the crest of it.


We waded across crisp autumn leaves to our seats and the models strode out from behind a black brick wall – their stern military coats as austere as the stiff halos of hair around their heads. It was almost menacing but not quite – Sarah Burton has done to McQ what she is credited with having done to the mainline. It’s just as inspiring but somehow carries a more feminised allure.


Khaki and green panelled coats were belted over fur neck pieces with dramatic leather heeled boots beneath that were laced up to above the knee. Ribbed knits had fur smothering the front and everything was belted by black leather featuring gold chains.


Then the mood began slowly to soften as the coats appeared in floral quilted dark green leather; strapless long kilt dresses in blue and navy tartan came over lace uppers and a red velvet dress featured stiff exaggerated hips. Then velvet jackets and skirts – some featuring a print of oak leaves picked out in sparkling red - tamed bulky layered tulle skirts with red flowers growing amongst the layers, before the flowers took over in every springtime colour.


Then Kristen McMenamy appeared in a white version (“the most beautiful wedding dress you could ever hope to get married in,” said Lucinda Chambers afterwards), and stood alone in the centre as more crisp leaves rained down upon her in a spotlight. Then she turned slowly around and bent to find a white rope among the leaves as the backdrop fell away to reveal a wood where we thought had been backstage. She followed the rope to a cottage in the woods – even the smell of woodland flora and fauna infused the room as she went – and as she arrived in it, it burst into disco lights and noise.


“It was a gorgeous punch line – as if McQ is keeping the home fires burning,” said Harriet Quick afterwards. “I loved all that usual McQueen drama. Sarah Burton makes military look romantic, with those full skirts and nipped waists and she mixes handicraft and couture with military and romance. It’s genius.”


A good deal more affordable than its mother line, McQ has made the incredibly desirable brand available to a much wider audience. And the stronger the McQ line grows, presumably, the more money there will be to allow the main McQueen line to be all the more couture. So everybody wins.


DOLLY JONES  20/02/2012  vogue.uk

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